Merrimac store offers many cheesy treats

By Ben Bromley, Capital Newspapers

MERRIMAC — Like a slice of cheddar in a mousetrap, Merrimac Cheese Company is tempting.

Sitting near the ferry landing, the store is designed to attract travelers with its Wisconsin-made cheeses and made-to-order sandwiches. Owner Mark Lyon said more than 300,000 cars pass by this spot each year, as commuters and tourists use the state’s only free ferry: “If I get 1 percent of those cars to come in here, and they spend $20 ...”

A former telecommunications engineer, Lyon opened Merrimac Cheese on June 19. “I really wanted to work for myself, set my own hours, make my own decisions,” he said.

Lyon enjoys cooking as a hobby, and relished the opportunity to sell specialty cheeses and make exotic sandwiches such as Cajun-style muffulettas. The store offers many varieties of cheese from Wisconsin producers, including Carr Valley of La Valle. Merrimac Cheese also sells honey and maple syrup, as well as coffee and hot chocolate by the cup.

Also on the menu are brats, hot dogs, bison meat and seasonal favorites such as chili in autumn, jambalaya for Mardi Gras and corned beef and cabbage for St. Patrick’s Day.

Lyon said his challenge as a new entrepreneur is determining what consumers want. “A lot of it is experimenting the first year, seeing what goes,” the Sauk City native said. “I have to keep trying new ways to bring people in.”

The store is located in a converted house. It features custom woodwork and is decorated with pottery and nature photography that’s for sale by consignment.

Lyon said he feels welcome in Merrimac, as many customers were pleased to see a sandwich shop open. “I like the people around here. They seem to like me,” he said. “I’ve had a lot of support from the community.”

Village Administrator Shellie Benish said the business is an attractive addition. Her sons visit Merrimac Cheese for string cheese and hot chocolate. “It’s something refreshing,” Benish said. “We’re always looking for new businesses in the community.”

The first year hasn’t been easy. Lyon had to slice through a lot of red tape before opening, and has learned the ins and outs of licenses and permits on the fly. “The whole thing has been a challenge,” he said.

But he enjoys being able to walk to work — he lives nearby — and make the choices that determine the store’s fate. “I like having this little niche,” he said. “I live and die with my own decisions.”

Lyon hopes customers will appreciate his efforts. “I’m looking for the people who think it’s unique and quaint, and definitely I hope they love the food and cheese that I have,” he said.

About the business

- What:  Merrimac Cheese Company

- Where:  135 Wisconsin St., Merrimac

- When:  Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday in winter

- Contact:  Call (608) 493-4122 or visit http://www.merrimaccheesecompany.com